Among all sorts of machine embroidery supplies, embroidery needles are without doubt one of the most crucial tools. It’ll significantly affect quality of your stitching results. While selection of needles can be a hard job for many beginners, because there are too many information on the Internet making you feel disoriented. How many sizes do embroidery needles come in? What’s the difference between regular embroidery needles and machine embroidery needles? This article aims to offer a quick guide on the most important considerations, thus you can understand the basics on embroidery needles and shop for the right items for your project.
1. Can you use a regular needle in an embroidery machine?
Yes, you can use a regular needle in a machine, but it’s not recommended.
A needle is a steel implement which takes a thread through fabrics. It’s pointed at one end and has an eye at the other end. However, different types of needles has different characteristics. A regular needle, as known as universal needle, is set to be used on sewing projects. Compared with universal needles, embroidery needles typically have larger eyes to accommodate thicker threads, making your stitch work easier. If you’re merely going to work on a small and less intricate design, a regular needle normally can handle the job. But they’re not specifically designed for this craft. From the image below, you can understand the physical difference between a universal needle and an embroidery one. So for anyone to use a sewing needle to embroider, it should going up a size for compatibility. Therefore, using an embroidery needle is always preferable. Owning to its pivotal place in embroidery, there’s no need to make do.
2. Can you use any needle for an embroidery machine?
No, you cannot use whatever needles you want for an embroidery machine. There are a lot of factors to be considered. Needle tip, needle shank and needle size are crucial factors that influence your ultimate choice.
2.1 Needle Tip
Embroidery needle tip refers to the pointed end of the needle. They come in different types to suit varied fabrics and embroidery techniques. For example, denser fabrics such as leather would require a sharp point needle so that it can penetrate the material smoothly. Here are the three main genres of needle tips.
- Ballpoint needles:used for lightly-woven fabrics, such as knits
- Sharp point needles:used for tightly and heavy-woven fabrics, such as denims
- Universal point:for home machines
2.2 Needle Shank
Shank is the part of an needle that fits into the needle bar of a machine, allowing the needle to be positioned correctly. Generally the category of shank depends on whether it’s used for home machines or commercial machines.
- Round shanks: used in most commercial embroidery machines
- Flat-Sided shanks: used in most home embroidery machines & Brother PR series
2.3 Needle Size
The general rule is to use a larger needle for heavier fabric and a smaller one for lighter material. And based on that principal, choose the smallest needle appropriate for the fabric to avoid creating unnecessary holes. The hole will not only influence you design’s performance, but also affect the tension. For the most common projects on a medium weight fabric, a 75/11 needle is your first option. Using it as a standard line, you can gauge other projects easily.
3. What is the most commonly used needle in embroidery?
Embroidery needle, also known as crewel needle, is the most commonly used needle in embroidery. They are sharp-pointed needles with a long eye. Available in sizes 1 to 10, its most popular sizes are 7 and 9. With its larger eye, it can accommodate thicker floss and make threading easier.
4. What is the best needle for embroidery hats?
Sharp point needle is the best for cap embroidery.
Caps usually require stronger needles so that they can penetrate the fabric, especially for those made of sturdy materials. Many people use the 80/12 needles for hat embroidery, but that’s not your only option. To embroidery a hat made of less heavy materials, a 75/11 needle will be just fine. And they are with better precision. For example, Milliner needles belong to sharp point needles and are commonly used in hat making and decorating. Their consistent thickness make them ideal for works requiring good control.
5. How do I know what size embroidery needle to use?
The sizing system of embroidery needles comes in two ways, the American way and European way. Today if you purchase a pack of embroidery needles, you might find it was labeled in the form like 75/11. The former number means that the needle shaft is 0.75 mm in diameter. This measuring system was set up in 1940s to standardize needle sizes. So where does the latter number come from? It actually just represents another measuring system made by Americans. The larger the number, the thicker the shaft and the stronger the needle is. Embroidery needles come in sizes ranging from 60/8 to 120/20. Which needle to use depends on fabric type, stabilizer, design density and threads being used. The correct needle is essential for a good embroidery result. In comparison with shopping for a nice brand, getting a right needle size is obviously more important.
The table below introduces several most common needle sizes and their compatible fabrics and threads:
| Needle Size | Fabric Type | Thread Type & Weight |
| 60/8 | Lingerie, Silk, Fine Lace | Rayon (60 Wt.) Polyester(60 Wt.) |
| 70/10 | Net, Chiffon, Lingerie, Silk, Cotton | Rayon (40 Wt.) Cotton (50 Wt.) Polyneon (40 Wt.) |
| 75/11 | Voile, Chiffon, Organza, Denim, Satin, Silk, Lycra, Spandex, Fleece | Rayon (30 Wt., 40 Wt. Metallic (40 Wt., 50 Wt.) Polyester (40 Wt.) |
| 80/12 | Tricot, Silks, Canvas, Linen, Cotton, Cotton Blends, Lycra, Fleece, Wool | Rayon (30 Wt., 40 Wt.) Metallic (40 Wt.) Polyester (40 Wt.) |
| 90/14 | Syn Velvets, Poplin, Linen, Light Wool, Jersey, Muslin, Double Knits, Canvas, Denim, Vinyl | Polyester (20 Wt., 30 Wt.) Metallic (30 Wt.) Cotton (30 Wt.) |
| 100/16 | Cord, Denim, Heavy Suiting, Corduroy, Canvas, Vinyl | Wool (12 Wt.) Metallic (20 Wt.) |
| 110/18 | Denim, Leather, Upholstery Fabric, Faux Fur | Cotton (20 Wt.) |
6. What is the most common embroidery needle size?
The most common embroidery needle size is 75/11. This is also a general starting point for many embroidery projects because of it’s versatility. A 75/11 needle has a diameter of 0.75 mm, making it a bit strong and work well with a variety of fabrics and thread types. But it’s important to note that the choice of needle size can affect the outcome of your embroidery project. You certainly won’t want to have a loose tension or a big hole left on your fabric. So, after getting a vibe for what needle size suits your project best, you should choose the most appropriate needle for the specific material and technique you are using.
7. Can I use a 90 14 needle for embroidery?
Yes, a 90/14 needle can be used for embroidery. A 90/14 needle is actually of a relatively large size, and therefore is more often used with heavyweight fabrics and medium-weight fabrics. Below, you'll find a table that indicates suitable fabrics and corresponding thread types and weights for use with 90/14 needles.
| Needle Size | Thread Type (Weight) | Needle Point | Fabric Type |
| 90/14 | Polyester/ Polyneon (30 Wt.) Metallic (20Wt, 30 Wt.) Cotton (30 Wt.) | Sharp point | Medium-Weight Woven (wool, medium-weight linens, gingham, man-made fabric, fine corduroy, suitings, fleeces) Heavyweight Fabrics (canvas, heavy denim, vinyl) |
| Ball point | Active Sportswear/Double Knits | ||
| Sharp point/ leather point | Leather |
8. How often do you need to change embroidery needles?
Generally speaking, you should change embroidery needles every 6-10 hours of stitching, depending on their working intensity. For example, if one needle has been stitching for 2 million stitches, it’s around the time for a replacement.
Machine embroidery needles are definitely consumables. Even if you're gentle with them, they will eventually bend or get dull. You should replace it once you notice your threads snagging or fraying a lot. But there is no set schedule for a change. It’s more of a rule of thumb thing. According to statistics, embroiderers change their needles with machines every 6-10 hours. And the average service life of embroidery machine needles is about 8 hours. When it’s been over-used, your stitch quality might decline. Sometimes a severely distorted needle even can damage your machine. Here are some signs indicating that it’s time for a change:
- Snagging
- Thread breaks
- Large holes on the fabric
- Stitching loops
- Lower stitching speed
- Fabric puckering
- Bird nesting
- ......
The frequency on changing needles is related to the type of thread and fabric being used as well. There are so many factors that can influence the embroidery effect, so remember to always check the needle’s condition regularly and replace the tarnished ones in time. Of course, changing needles at a regularly base is a useful way to prevent your fabrics or machine being damaged from the poor-conditioned needle.
Conclusion
Embroidery is a craft requiring patience and carefulness. There is no exact answer to which needle is the best for your specific projects. Needless to say, it’s another item in embroidery that is a deeply personal preference.So, the best advice is to keep a variety of needles at hand and run a test before you start the real embroidering project. Once detected a problem, you can adjust it in time.
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